Fruit trees combine ornamental value, fragrance, shade, and food production. Their healthy development depends on four fundamental pillars: good lighting, balanced watering, fertile soil, and annual pruning. Although each species has its own particularities, they share general guidelines that allow for a solid and applicable management guide.
Light and Location
Fruit trees need between 6 and 8 hours of direct sunlight per day. The more sun exposure, the greater the flowering and fruit production. They are best placed in:
In gardens: open areas facing north or northeast.
Avoid shade projected by walls, large trees, or buildings.
In pots: balconies or terraces with high luminosity.
If they receive fewer than 5 hours of direct sun, fruiting decreases significantly, flowering becomes weaker, and the tree tends to elongate in search of light.
Watering
The substrate should stay slightly moist without becoming waterlogged. Excess water is one of the most common causes of weakening.
Spring–summer: water 2 to 3 times a week, ensuring deep irrigation that moistens at least 20–30 cm. During heat waves, additional watering may be required.
Autumn: reduce to 1–2 waterings per week, observing soil conditions.
Winter: water once a week or every 10–12 days depending on the climate. Citrus trees require more constant but moderate watering.
Signs of underwatering:
• Drooping or soft leaves
• Small or deformed fruits
• Dry leaf edges
Signs of overwatering:
• Yellow leaves with green veins
• Musty or rotting smell in the soil
• Leaf drop without dryness
Soil and Substrate
Fruit trees need fertile soils, rich in organic matter and with very good drainage. Compact substrates hinder root development and promote disease.
In gardens, improve soil with compost, humus, or well-cured manure, and avoid untreated clay soils.
For pots, the ideal mix is:
• 40% black soil or compost
• 40% universal substrate
• 20% perlite or coarse sand
Citrus trees require 40–60 L pots; peach trees and fig trees 60–80 L.
pH: 6.0–7.0 (slightly acidic to neutral). Citrus tolerate acidity better.
Flowering and Fruiting
Flowering and fruiting depend on light, pruning, and fertilization.
Spring: budding and flowering
Summer: fruit development
Autumn: ripening
Winter: dormancy (except citrus, which may have extended cycles)
Late frosts can affect peach trees, fig trees, and grapevines.
Fertilization
Early spring: nitrogen-rich fertilizers to stimulate leaf and shoot growth.
Late spring: balanced NPK (e.g., 12-12-12) for flower formation.
Summer: fertilizers richer in phosphorus and potassium to support fruit development.
Late summer–early autumn: apply compost or humus to restore soil fertility. Avoid excess nitrogen during fruiting, as it produces too much foliage and fewer fruits.
Pruning
Pruning improves light penetration, stimulates fruit production, controls size, and removes diseased parts.
When to prune: winter dormancy. Citrus only light pruning in late winter or early spring.
Remove: crossed branches, inward-growing branches, dead/damaged wood, and strong vertical shoots (“water sprouts”).
Common mistakes: overpruning citrus, performing heavy pruning in midsummer, and making large cuts without sealing (leaving wide wounds without a cicatrizant increases the risk of fungal infections, pests, and internal rot).
Pests and Diseases
Fruit tree care includes monitoring pests, which are attracted to leaves, wood, and sugary developing fruits. Early identification prevents structural damage and crop loss.
Common pests:
• Scale insects
• Aphids
• Fruit fly
• Red spider mite
• Leaf miner (common in citrus)
• Peach fungal diseases (leaf curl, gummosis)
• Powdery mildew in grapevines
• Alternaria or anthracnose in citrus
Recommended treatments:
• Potassium soap
• Neem oil
• Sticky traps
• Good ventilation and preventive pruning
Transplanting
Transplanting is delicate and should be done during dormancy (late winter or early spring). In warm climates, early autumn may also be suitable.
Before transplanting:
• Deep watering 2–3 days before
• Light structural pruning
• Mark tree orientation to maintain original alignment
Steps:
• Dig a hole twice the width of the root ball
• Improve soil with compost or sand
• Avoid strong fertilizers
• Extract tree with intact root ball
• Place at same depth and orientation
• Refill and lightly compact
• Deep watering to settle soil
Aftercare:
• Provide light shade during the first days
• Keep soil moist but not waterlogged
• Avoid strong fertilization for 6–8 weeks
• Monitor leaves and shoots closely
Common Problems and Solutions
Fruit trees often face water stress, nutrient deficiencies, pests, fungal diseases, or poor environmental adaptation. Balancing watering, using proper fertilization, providing adequate light, and improving soil structure typically resolves most issues. Early detection and an integrated approach lead to healthier trees and consistent fruit production.
Conclusion
Fruit tree care is a process of observation and balanced practices. When the tree is in harmony with its environment, it responds with vigor, health, and abundant fruiting. With proper management, anyone can enjoy strong and productive fruit trees in a garden or home orchard.
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